Monday, 11 November 2013

Something New!

So this is my climbing/adventure/basically-avoiding-work blog space. I'll be chucking on loads of stuff from the beta of some of the climbing routes I do to how unfit I realize I am next time I go for a run with Dad!

The route follows up the center of the largest slab to the cliffs highest point

So for my first post i'm going to blog about a route I did with Rob Steer just after that massive storm we had up on The Culm coast in Cornwall.

The route (Wreckers Slab, VS 4b) is a poorly protected, loose, crumbling Cornish slab (wow i know right sounds amazing!). However it is almost one of the longest and most wild routes on the north coast and for that reason makes it seem much more appealing! A climb for the true glory hunter, or if you hate climbing around other people or on good rock..

So after walking for 40 minutes up the coast and over far to many hills the huge monolith comes into sight.  That is where the approach changes from mildly enjoyable to scrambling down a crumbling cliff and lowering yourself down rotten nylon ropes but eventually we go to the bottom. Once down you get a full feel for the angle which is quite kicked back even if it doesn't seem that way from every other vantage point (which is a relife!).

Rob Steer leading the first pitch

The first pitch (4a, 45m) crosses above an overhang on minimal gear to a  corner (looser than a scouse hooker!), up which, leads to a belay (yet more pegs).  The next pitch (4b, 35m) starts by breaching some overlaps and up onto an emaculate slab (all again with barely any meaningfull gear) to some (more) pegs. After dancing up this for a further 20m you reach a pillar belay. From here you're supposed to surmount a wobbly pillar and onto the slab (45m). However the pillar looks as if it is long overdue a tumble down the cliff so we opted for the jamming crack which leads to the grassy slabs and the top. All the pitches were long and runout, the rock had the structural rigidity of cornflakes and there were more rusted pegs than in all of Gogarth but WHAT a route!

Me moving through the overlaps

Rob seconding the last pitch